Committed!

We've formally registered for the Long Mynd Hike today! No turning back now or we lose 50 quid.

En route to Earl's Hill

24 JUNE 2012

Later start this time and our first training walk where we couldn’t set off in our walking boots from home. Thus far we’ve covered fairly familiar ground but today we had to venture into less known territory and find the best route from Stiperstones to Earl’s Hill.

It didn’t quite go as planned, but more of that later.

Set off from Stiperstones car park at 9.15, minus binoculars - first mistake; remember to have a kit list, even for the training walks in future. The weather deteriorated immediately. What is it about Stiperstones and weather? It has its own micro climate which seems without fail bad. Visibility on top was only about 100m. We heard some ravens before we could see them, due to visibility not the fact that they were flying high; four of them spotted just after the summit. Last week we had taken the path back just before Shepherd’s Rock, but this week our quest took us straight over the ridge, a route which surprisingly we have never done before. 

First glimpse of Earl's Hill.

The ubiquitous Wrekin in the distance.

The weather began to clear a bit as we got towards the end of Stiperstones … surprise, surprise, and we got our first glimpse of Earl’s Hill. And views of the Wrekin in the distance; it is remarkable how many places in Shropshire that distinctive shape can be seen. We then turned down what looked like a green ride with holly, hawthorn and rowan. Pleasant but it was in fact a wrong turn. We worked this out as soon as the path started to double back and if we hadn’t turned off, we’d have been on the way back to Shepherd’s Rock.

Confidently striding off, on the wrong path.

Rejoined the proper path at the edge of the National Nature Reserve and then headed downhill and another missed path. (We found out why later.)

Still, keeping close to the edge of Eastridge Woods we found our intended route again - if only for a short while - past Upper Vessons Farm. After a brief coffee and flapjack stop at 11.15, pedometer reading 7.2km. (My flapjacks weren’t quite up to Sue’s standards, being more crispy than chewy.) 

Path alongside Eastridge Woods.

We then checked the map and being unconvinced by the unmarked gate and abandoned caravan at the end of the track, opted for the bridleway on the right. Wrong! This is getting a bit repetitive, but it was another wrong turn. And this time we paid for it by climbing over a stile into ankle-deep mud in a field that had been churned up by some frisky horses. It did say it was a bridleway after all.

After clambering up the muddy slope we came out at a farm which a discarded sign told us was Lower Vessons. A detour but at least we could work out where we were and follow the track and then up the lane to Habberley. 

Looking happy but ankle-deep in squelch.

We christened it Honeysuckle lane as there was a stunning hedgerow which included a wide variety of species. In just a few yards Sue identified field maple, hazel, holly, blackthorn, oak, dog rose, elder, black bryony, hawthorn, possibly whitebeam and even some fuschia. It was reminiscent of a summer a long time ago when she was doing hedgerow surveys for her dissertation. In fact I think we are still wearing the same boots!

The frisky horses come to have a look.

Honeysuckle everywhere.

Just before we reached Habberley we spotted the end of the path we had been intending to take from Upper Vessons Farm. Decision time. It was now 12.20 and we had only covered 10.6km and still had Earl’s Hill to do and a lot more paths to find, or not, on the return. So we opted to retrace our steps instead so that we could find out where the pesky path was and at least learn one section rather than risk getting lost all day.

Confidently striding again, but no footpath to be seen.

Maybe it's that way ...

It turned out to be a good decision, although not immediately. The first section of path ended in a newly sown field of corn with no discernible footpath whatsoever. We tried to conjure up some hidden country lore and decided that the two oak trees in the middle of the field probably represented former field boundaries before it was widened, and so that must surely be where the path goes. Not quite.

After a fruitless circuit of two fields and catching a strong whiff of wild garlic, we found ourselves - back on the lane to Habberley! Full circle. We are clearly not going to qualify for our orienteering badges today.

Another decision-time. It was now 12.50 and we had covered only 12.2 km

The signposted lane to the cycle tracks at Eastridge woods looked promising. A bit of a slog up the hill but eventually we reached the woods and then took the lane at the edge, mainly to avoid any rogue mountain bikes as the car park was jam-packed with transit vans and trailers of bike groups.

So that's where we should have gone after all.

Looking for a dry spot to have lunch we plonked down at the end of the woods, intending to veer right and across to Snailbeach. And lo and behold, the abandoned caravan and unmarked gate! Back where we (should) have started! So quick lunch at 1.15pm, 13.6km and then decided to go for a complete retracing of steps to nail the route once and for all.

The farmer at Upper Vessons enquired after our health and then followed us on his quad bike but we did manage to find the missing link back up to Stiperstones. The end of the path that we had missed earlier had a fine post to mark it but the footpath sign was for some reason missing, which is why we had walked past it. In fact it lines up perfectly with Earl’s Hill so you just need to keep going straight. I think we will be able to spot it easily next time, maybe even in the dark. Reached 14.95 km here.

A final look back at Earl's Hill, now left for another day.

Ragged robin by the path.

Just after the gate onto Shropshire Wildlife Trust land, we spotted a lone red kite. No binoculars of course but it was fairly distinctive even at a distance. Wasn’t aware that they are found here. Ragged robin growing beside the path and then we found the final missing link, the first missed path from the morning, just before reaching the squatter cottages at Blakemoorgate. 

Sheep glowing in the undergrowth.

Squatter cottage at Blakemoorgate.

The other restored squatter cottage.

There are two restored cottages which are open on certain weekends and probably worth a return visit. Interesting site. Apparently there was a belief, although not backed by law, that if you could build a cottage overnight and have smoke coming out of the chimney by morning, you could stay there. And the land around could be cultivated for the distance of an axe-throw at four corners. The cottages were only finally abandoned in the 1950s. Difficult to imagine life up here which would have been pretty harsh, with the day job down the lead mine at Snailbeach providing little respite.

Cotton grass in flower.

Devil's chair at Stiperstones.

View back along path, the way we should have gone earlier.

More flora spotted on the moor with cotton grass in flower amidst the heather and whinberry.

We returned along the side of Stiperstones with a pleasant walk through Gatten Plantation. Never seen this area of Stiperstones before and it is clearly well geared for the less able with a level path from the car park and resting spots and benches placed along the way. 

Constable-like view across the valley.

Felled conifer stumps resembling a graveyard.

Remains of the former conifer plantation were very evident with the pale coloured stumps looking like a graveyard from a distance. As we reached the car park we spotted a couple of the Exmoor ponies and what we presume were the black Hebridean sheep on the slopes; apparently they have been imported to keep the scrub at bay and let the heather take hold in the wake of the felling of the conifers in the late 1990s.

Final tally was 21.1km at 3.52pm. Not quite the walk we had intended, but at least we now know a good route to Habberley which is a good deal straighter than the meandering route we took.

Celebratory pint and a half at Bridges.

On two wheels

17 June 2012

Not quite a walk this time, but training all the same. Francis and I went for an evening ride over the Long Mynd. Wasn’t sure how well my old mountain bike would fare but nothing dropped of at least and I go back in one piece. 

Climbed up Motts Road which is direct but tough-going pushing the bikes, didn’t even attempt to ride up there. At the top two ponies were grazing and one appears in the photograph. 

Francis and pony at top of Motts Road.

Nice ride up to Pole Bank via Shooting Box, same spot in consecutive days! Had to walk up some of the final ascent to Pole Bank but I blame the bike. Next time I’ll ride all the way, promise. 

Fantastic views at the top including clear sight of Cadair Idris in far distance beyond Corndon. We now had ride down towards gliding climb and then took bridleway towards Little Stretton. 

Bikes at Pole Bank.

View to Corndon from Pole Bank.

Cracking grassy descent, I now understand why the boys love this so much! Stopped for a group of ponies of which the youngest came up close enough for Francis to stroke his head.

Onward and downward with one very steep and precipitous section. Francis was way ahead while I rode down on the brakes, realising that I really do need a better bike for this.

Got to the bottom in one piece though and easy ride back along the road from Little Stretton. You can tell Francis’s bike is new as he washed it down straight away.

Can’t wait for the next time.

Second training day

Sun 16 June

Lamb and mother near Lightspout.

Day two of our training programme. Failed the 8am departure target - again. Left at 8.30 with plan to walk over to Stiperstones and get bus back from Bridges. Forecast was medium level cloud - whatever that means. But it was wrong in any case, light rain started as soon as we got into Carding Mill Valley and Sue stopped to put her coat on. (She had remembered proper hat this time at least!)

Lightspout waterfall.

Steps at Lightspout.

Towards Lightspout.

Watermint at Lightspout.

Lovely climb up to Lightspout after passing a couple of groups of walkers arriving in the valley. Housemartins were busy at the old mill flats and then a grey wagtail accompanied us, bobbing up and down the stream towards Lightspout. First photo stop of the day was caused by a very young lamb who helpfully posed for Sue. Arrived at the waterfall at 9.11, pedometer reading 2.95km. Lots more photos here, including close-ups of watermint growing in the stream. Steps up from the waterfall are fairly wet but not too much of a problem. Decent path above up on to the Long Mynd. 

Bales by the Shooting Box.

On the Long Mynd.

Great view of blue-tinged hills to the south east, is that the Malverns in the distance? Shooting Box at 10.45am and a coffee break at 5.06km. This time we had brought extra supplies which proved welcome, although still need to find better quality, lighter flasks. Three school minibuses parked here, which we saw later driving up and down, maybe it was a bus tour and not much of a walking party after all.

Quick walk up to Pole Bank which is checkpoint 5 on the Hike. Arrived 10.12 at 6.22km and over 8,000 steps. Good view of Corndon which is one of the later peaks on the Hike, looks pretty formidable now and will be dark when we have to climb it! (In fact it is slightly lower than Pole Bank at 517m.) On return from Pole Bank we found a waymarked path to Priory Cottage which avoided going all the way back to the Shooting Box. Good path through the heather which drops down on the edge of National Trust land. Very noticeable difference between the improved grassland outside the boundary and the moorland on the NT side. Boggy on lower part of the descent before it joins the stone path from the Shooting Box.

At Pole Bank.

Corndon seen from Pole Bank.

Stopped for sandwich and Sue’s fantastic flapjacks made with linseed porridge at 10.45, pedometer reading 8.58km just before the western boundary of the Long Mynd. We definitely need stocks of these flapjacks for the walk.

View towards Stiperstones.

Priory Cottage.

View from Long Mynd westwards.

Track on the Mynd.

Different sheep breed noticed here, long legs and bigger angular heads, although lambs were different so must be different ram breed. These were noticeably more timid, or at least camera-shy, than the sheep on the other side. Passed Priory Cottage which appears to be nothing of the sort. Looks like an institutional building, now derelict, would make a great bunkhouse. 

Long-necked sheep.

Sheep near Priory Cottage.

Coates sign.

Arrived at Coates at 11.19, 9.94km and joined what is allegedly a road to Bridges. Lots of swallows in the farmyard as well as great tit and goldfinch. Further down the lane, by the path marked Adstone Walk, heard our first curlew and shortly after saw three of them flying over. Our best view of a curlew since North York Moors in the 1980s.

Got to Horseshoe pub at Bridges at 11.40 and 11.34km. Noted on the Hike that this is only the 12-mile mark - not even a quarter of the way!

Outside Bridges.

The Horseshoe Inn at Bridges.

Slow down for walkers - some people didn't.

Tough climb up the lane to Stiperstones car park. Very steep road, with signs at the top to warn drivers to slow down because of walkers in the road, something which was ignored by those who passed us. Saw a redstart in the fields and an unidentified warbler-like bird. Sue was taken with the name Squilver on one house/settlement and there was what looked like a mine ventilation shaft on the other side of the road.

Squilver sign.

Stiperstones.

Ventilation shaft at Squilver.

With the Stiperstones now well in view stopped for lunch at 12.30, pedometer 14.35km. More sandwich and flapjack and rest of coffee. At entrance to Stiperstones there were notices about the Phytophthora fungus problem affecting the bilberry. It’s related to the fungus which led to Irish potato blight and is clearly a concern with instructions to wash your boots on leaving the reserve. It is at least reasonably easy to control access here as most people probably exit through one end or other. Wonder if this will be a problem when there are 500+ walkers on the Hike?

Healthy whinberry.

Unhealthy whinberry.

Realised it was quite a while since we had been up Stiperstones and Sue recalled a photo of F and M clambering up one of the cairns.

Near the top the path is very rocky indeed - note to selves, try to make sure we arrive here in the light for the Hike! Arrived at checkpoint at top at 1.15, having covered 14.35km. Fantastic rock formations on top including some layered rocks which look a bit like an abandoned building project.

Devil's Chair.

Lichen at Stiperstones.

Rock outcrop at Stiperstones.

Sue at Devil's Chair.

Path at Stiperstones.

Began to realise that our aim to catch the bus back at 2.40 was looking a bit doubtful and more importantly, would we be in time to have a beer at the pub? Turned right before reaching Shepherd’s Rock onto path that rejoins the Shropshire Way.

Posing calf.

Calf-like ram.

Cockerel on tractor.

Easy downhill section after the jagged rocks of Stiperstones. Very attractive calves meant more photos and then just after we passed through The Hollies farm where a cockerel was riding a tractor, some very well-endowed rams that looked more like calves themselves, with huge heads and shoulders, and other large parts as well.
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Final flapjack stop of the day. (It’s only one flapjack each by the way, we’ve just had a bit at a time as it is very filling and great for energy while walking.)

All downhill on the lanes now but it starts raining properly for first time in the day, although only light.

Pint and a half of Solstice.

As we went down the final hill one of the Shuttle buses passed us and we had definitely missed the 2.40, but the good news is that this meant we had time for a beer. (Sue accused me of deliberately slowing us down to miss it.) Arrived at the pub at 2.47 having just passed the 20km-mark. Lovely pint, and a half, of Solstice watching the curlews swoop over the field with five seen flying at once, as well as swallows and wagtails.

Hurray for the Long Mynd Shuttle.

The Shuttle bus arrived on time although this was surprising since the very helpful and friendly driver told us he had broken down just after we had seen him and had to call out an engineer. He told us he’d had to walk 100m to get a phone signal which is nothing unusual on this side as there is no signal at all at the pub at Bridges. Nice route back through Ratlinghope, High Park and Jinlye, before driver dropped us off at the end of our road at 4pm.

Next outing will be on less familiar routes to Earl’s Hill and beyond ...